Diet
The proper feeding of pet birds has been one of the most
challenging aspects of their care, primarily because of limited
nutritional research in all species. However, based on experience
and studies by feed companies, generalizations can be made on adequate
feeding practices in birds.
Your bird's diet is one of the most important considerations of
his or her overall care. Adequate feeding plans may be developed
from a wide variety of commonly available foods, or formulated
diets specially prepared for birds by commercial companies may be offered.
Formulated Diets(Pellets)
Complete, formulated products are available in the pet food industry to offer convenience to
the owner and to balance the animal's diet. The current trend is toward appropriate
formulations for different lifestyles, addressing special age-, activity-,
therapeutic- and stress-related needs.
Formulated diets specifically developed as the primary ration for pet birds
are now available. These diets may be purchased as pellets, nuggets, crumbles,
"chew bars" (Avicakes or Nutriberries) or hand-feeding premixes.
Ask our personnel to show you these alternatives.
Converting a seed-eating bird to a formulated food must be done with care
because new items in the cage may not be immediately recognized as food.
Birds in a natural environment are cautious, a defense mechanism that keeps
them from eating anything dangerous. Pet birds exhibit similar behaviour,
restricting their diets to narrow ranges of familiar foods.
One result is the development of nutritional deficiencies; as well the
introduction of dietary changes designed to correct them is often difficult.
For some birds, any new food, introduced suddenly ,
can frighten them so that they will deprive themselves of all food.
To avoid this, we recommend several methods for
Converting your bird to pellets:
* Mix pellets with your bird's accustomed diet, about 10% worth at first.
Then gradually increase the amount until they win your bird over completely.
or
* Crush the pellets and sprinkle them over the seed.
or
* Fill a dish with pellets and leave it all day long with Avicakes
and Nutriberries, while giving your bird seeds for short periods
each morning and evening.
Sunflower eating birds must be first weaned from this diet by
temporarily replacing it with a safflower seed mix. This is a
temporary measure since safflower seed contains more fat than
sunflower.
The entire conversion process, from tentative to total acceptance may
take about a month or more, depending on the bird.
Starving your bird to introduce it to eat pellets is not an option.
The rapid metabolism of birds requires continuous food intake. A small
bird cannot go hungry for more than 24-36 hours without risking
starvation.
You can spice up your bird's pelleted diet by adding food from the
dinner table, as long as it accounts for no more than 20% of the
diet.
Once your bird begins eating pellets, its dropping will change colour
from green or black to brown. And because a pelleted diet causes a
bird to drink more water, they'll also become looser, wetter and even
bulkier.
During the conversion to a pelleted diet, it is advisable to
periodically have your bird weighed.
Alternate Feeding Plan
Unfortunately, many first time bird owners believe that seeds,
seed treats and other items that are sold on the market as "bird food"
provide complete nutrition. Seeds lack 21 nutrients from 4 food
groups: protein, minerals, trace minerals and vitamins. No seed
diet can be a complete diet. Therefore, other foods, such as those
comprising a lean, modern, vegetarian type human diet, must be added
to balance the nutrients missing in seeds. Pet birds are most often
fed diets that are deficient in Vitamin A, Calcium and contain excess fat.
Grains
Approximately 60% of the daily food consumption may be selected from
whole grains and grain products. Common food items include various
bird seeds, cooked brown rice, oats and oatmeal, dry corn, barley,
wheat and whole grain bread.
Fresh vegetables
Vegetables could comprise approximately 10% of the diet; they provide
some essential vitamins and minerals needed by birds, but not all.
Light-coloured vegetables with very high water content
(eg. iceberg lettuce, celery) are the least beneficial.
The most valuable vegetables to feed are dark green and
leafy or dark yellow.
* those with high vitamin A content are:
broccoli, endive, escarole, carrots, parsley, pumpkin,
winter squash and sweet potato. These may be fed raw
(more often has a higher nutritional value) or cooked.
Fresh fruit
Fruits should be offered in limited quantities in order
to prevent overconsumption by the bird. The diet should
include less than 5% fruits. Most birds do not need
outside sources of vitamin C except during periods of
illness or high stress, but high vitamin A containing
fruits are desirable. These include papaya, cantaloupe and apricots.
Sources of protein
Mature legumes (eg. cooked beans such as soy, navy, kidney, mung,
lentils or mature peas) may be offered in amounts up to 25% of the
diet and provide a valuable source of protein. High fat containing
legumes such as peanuts should be limited. Small amounts of tuna or
other fish, beef, chicken or eggs may also be offered.
Sources of Calcium
Excessive consumption of milk products by birds is not advised,
so the calcium needs must be provided through other means
(although birds do enjoy small amounts of yogourt, cottage
cheese and hard cheeses). It is generally believed that
the greater the consumption of seeds in the diet, the higher
the need for supplementary calcium. This is most easily met
by mineral supplements in the form of cuttlebone, oyster
shell and/or a mineral block. If the bird refuses to eat those
items, crushed calcium tablets, liquid or powder can be mixed
with other foods.
Owner compliance
The time and effort involved in preparing foods, and the difficulty
in balancing the nutrients make owner compliance the most difficult
aspect of an alternate feeding-plan. Birds will not choose a balanced
diet if given free choice.
Fresh water
Fresh water must be provided at all times. Vitamin and mineral
supplements should not be added to the water:
*They oxidize rapidly and therefore lose their potency
* They create an enriched environment for bacterial growth and pollute
the water.
Feeding Tips
*Carefully monitor TOTAL food consumption during a diet change.
*Introduce very small pieces of a single new food at a time. Do so
repeatedly over a 2-3 week period until the bird adjusts. Do not give up.
*Gradually reduce the total volume of seed offered as consumption of
other foods increases.
*All food and water cups should be cleaned daily and spilled food
removed from the cage.
*All supplemental vitamins may be recommended by your avian
veterinarian but are not necessary when feeding a pelleted diet.
* Some food forms can occasionally help provide sources of activity
for the bird: berries, corn on the cob, and limited amounts of whole
nuts.
Do Not Feed: avocado, friut pits and seeds, ground cherries
(those that are sold with a lantern like cover), tomato plant,
chocolate, butter, foods containing high fat, salt, or sugar,
and no alcohol.
Also, many house plants are toxic if ingested.
Grit (gravel)
The necessity of providing hard, undigestible grit (different from mineral supplements described earlier) is controversial. We believe that birds who husk their seeds do not require grit for digestion.
Furthermore, overconsumption of grit may cause digestive tract irritation or obstruction.
We advise you to avoid giving your bird grit. Grit does aid digestion in birds who eat their
seeds whole (doves, pigeons,..) but oyster shell can serve this purpose and provide a source
of calcium as well.
Special Requirements Concerning Diet
Lories, lorikeets and related species require specialized diets
in captivity, one of which simulates nectar. A formula mix that
contains known essential nutrients can be offered dry or moist,
and can be supplemented daily or several times a week with fresh
fruit and vegetables, pollen and mealworms.
Special diets are available for soft billed birds. Because
Toucans and Mynah birds have a tendency to develop iron storage
disease, one should offer a formulated diet with low iron content.
These birds need diced fruit and vegetables daily.
General Care
* Environment:
* Temperature
A healthy bird can tolerate temperatures that are comfortable
to its owner. Sudden changes in temperature may be a potential
threat to the sick bird.
* Humidity
Pet birds can adapt to a wide range of humidity levels,
although birds native to subtropical climates may benefit
from localized increases in humidity in the home
(eg. in bathroom with running shower, or frequent
spraying of feathers with water, preferably in the morning).
Light and Fresh Air
Opportunities for supervised access to fresh air and direct
sunlight (not filtered through glass) appear to be beneficial,
as long as shade is available. Use of full spectrum lights such
as "Vitalites" are also worthy of consideration.
Housing
The largest cage that can be accomodated in the home is
recommended for birds that are expected to be confined most
of the time. The cage must be strong enough to resist bending
or dismantling by the bird, made of non-toxic material, and
designed for safety and ease of cleaning. Wooden caged are not
recommended for obvious reasons. In most cases, the cage would
need to be wider than it is tall to accomodate stretched wings;
however ample height should be provided for long tailed birds.
Perches
Optimum perches are clean, easily replaceable, appropriate sized,
natural wood branches from pesticide free and non toxic trees
(eg. elm, some fruit trees, manzanita).
Perches of several different diameters, shapes and textures are
preferable. Do not use sandpaper perch covers as they will damage
the skin of your bird's feet.
Perches should be placed at various levels to encourage climbing
and provide exercise. A single well-placed perch may be adequate
for agile climbers like psittacines because they tend to prefer
the highest perch even if more are provided. Two perches, one on
each end of the cage, should be available for species such as finches,
which prefer flying or jumping to climbing.
Perches should be placed to prevent droppings from contaminating the
bird's food or water, and to prevent the bird's tail from contacting
food, water or the floor of the cage.
Food and Water Bowls
The use of wide bowls rather than deep cups displays food attractively
and may encourage the bird to eat new items. Healthy psittacines with
normal ambulatory skills can easily approach the food and water bowls;
therefore it is not necessary in these cases to place bowls directly
beside the perch. Birds often overeat or chew on food dishes out of
boredom.
Hygiene
A daily cleaning of the cage floor and bowls prevents problems
with food spoilage and alerts the owner to potential signs of
illness. A weekly, thorough cleaning of the cage is suggested.
Cage Liners
Newspapers, paper towels or other plain cage liner paper is safer
and preferred over wood chips, chopped corn cobs, kitty litter or
sand as cage substrate under the grating, so that the appearance
and number of droppings can be monitored on a daily basis. The
latter mentioned litters are dusty and may if ingested cause
digestive obstruction.
Security
Many birds benefit from the availability of a retreat inside
the cage for a sense of privacy (eg. paper bag, towel, box).
Activity
In appropriate species, opportunities may be provided for
exercise in the form of supervised freedom from the cage or
flying in the home.
Most pet birds are intelligent, active animals that need
their psychological needs addressed. Locate the cage near
family activity in the home.
Toys are useful as mental diversions and tend to encourage
physical exercise and beak wear; however, they must be
selected with safety of the bird in mind. Chewable items
include branches, rawhide dog chews, natural fiber rope
and soft white pine.
Basic Health Care and Grooming
Minimal body care is required for the healthy, well-fed pet bird.
However, confined, indoor pet birds that resist a varied diet are
prone to require more attention in the care of beak, feathers,
feet and nails.
During the moulting* of feathers, additional fat, protein and
vitamins may be required in the diet. As a new feather develops,
the bird will pick at the pin feather cover to open it.
This should not be interpreted as "feather picking" or the
presence of mites. Pure water is the most appropriate feather spray.
* moulting is a normal physiological process when feathers are lost
and replaced. This may occur 1-2 times annually and may last from 1
week to 2-3 months depending on the individual and its environment.
Keep feathers dry and free of oily substances. Never apply ointments
or greasy products to skin or feathers. Soiled feathers may be gently
cleaned with a mild detergent solution (eg. baby shampoo) followed by
a thorough warm water rinsing and drying in a warm environment.
A bi-annual wing clip may be necessary to prevent escape or injury,
or for taming and training.
Long nails can remain hooked on cage wires, toys or material,
resulting in injuries as the bird attemts to free himself. We
recommend regular nail trims.
It may be wise to remove leg bands to prevent injury. If a band
must remain on the leg for identification purposes, check under
the band occasionally for signs of dirt accumulation, swelling or
constriction of the leg and beware of toys in the cage that may hook
on to the band and trap the bird.
What to Avoid
* Sandpaper covered perches
* Air pollutants such as cigarette smoke, insecticides and
toxic fumes from overheated Teflon-coated utensils.
* Mite boxes or sprays.
* Easily dismantled toys such as balsa wood, small link chain items,
toys with metal clips or skewers, or those with lead weights.
* Access to toxic houseplants, ceiling fans, cats, dogs, young children.
* Access to cedar, redwood or pressure treated pine chips as cage
substrate.
* Any metals /wires containing lead, copper, zinc, gold or silver.
Signs of Illness
Early signs of illness in birds are frequently missed by the pet owner.
As a survival tactic in the wild, a sick bird will attempt to
maintain a normal appearance as long as possible, so that by the
time any symptoms are obvious, the bird has usually been ill for
some time. The bird that "dies suddenly" may be the result of
failure to observe changes in the appearance or behaviour of the
bird prior to that time. For this reason, owners should familiarize
themselves with early signs of illness in pet birds so that any
therapy and care by their avian veterinarian will have a more favorable
outcome.
Evaluation of Droppings
Observation of droppings is one simple method of monitoring your
bird's health. Paper towels, newspaper or other smooth surfaces
can be used to line the cage bottom so that the number, volume,
colour and consistency of the three components of the droppings
can be noted daily. A bird's normal droppings will vary in
appearance depending on its diet.
Normal Droppings
Feces (food waste material from digestive tract) can differ somewhat
in colour and consistency. Diets with a high seed content usually
produce homogeneous black or dark green feces. Birds on formulated
diets normally exhibit soft, brownish feces.
Urine is normally clear liquid. A diet too high in vegetable and
fruit matter may increase the urine component, as will a pelleted
diet.
Urates (creamy white waste from the kidney) are often suspended in
the liquid urine or appear to wrap around the feces.
Abnormal Droppings
The sick bird may exhibit:
* decrease in the total number of droppings.
* colour change to yellow or green of the urates or urine.
* increase in the water content of the feces (diarrhea)
* increase of the urine portion (polyuria)
* decrease in the feces volume with increased urates (polyurates)
* presence of blood
Some normal variations may be seen in impending egg laying females,
baby birds on hand feeding formulas, the first void of the morning,
conditions of nervousness and stress, or following a large meal of
a specific coloured food (eg. blueberries). Thus, the owner should
evaluate several droppings under normal circumstances before becoming
alarmed.
Earliest Signs of Disease
The following symptoms may not require emergency treatment, but
because they are abnormal, any bird showing these signs should be
checked by your avian veterinarian, if these are not noticed during
the regular check-up:
* broken, bent, picked or chewed feathers.
* unusual or dull feather colours.
* stained feathers over nares or around the vent.
* crusty material in nostrils.
* redness swelling or loss of feathers around eye.
* flakiness of skin or beak.
* loss of pattern, baldness or sores on bottom of feet.
* lameness or shifting of body weight.
* overgrowth of beak or nails.
* minor changes in talking, biting or eating habits.
* low reproduction in breeding birds.
* abnormal droppings.
If these early signs are missed, they may progress to:
Signs of Serious Illness
The following symptoms may indicate a serious health problem and
veterinary assistance should be sought at once!
* significant changes in number and appearance of the droppings.
* decreased or excessive food and water consumption.
* change in attitude, personality or behaviour.
* fluffed posture.
* decreased vocalisation.
* change in breathing or abnormal sounds.
* change in weight or general body condition (weight in grams).
* enlargement or swelling on the body.
* any bleeding or injury.
* vomiting or regurgitation (head feathers pasted).
* discharge from nostrils, eyes or mouth.
* loss of balance, unable to perch on both legs.
First Aid
Heat and food are the two most important considerations for temporary
care of the sick bird until it can be seen by your avian veterinarian: The
bird should be kept quiet and handling should be avoided.
Heat
A temperature of 85-90°F should be maintained for sick birds. A
temporary incubator can be made by placing a heating pad or a hot
water bottle along the side or floor of the cage and draping the
entire cage (or 3/4 of it depending on intensity of heat source)
with towels, a blanket or cage cover. An infra-red or 100 watt light
can be used as an alternate heat source. If the bird starts breathing
rapidly and holds its wings away from its body, the temperature is too
hot, so monitor bird regularly. Certain types of room heaters
(e.g. kerosene) should be avoided near the bird.
Food
Every effort must be made to encourage the sick bird to eat.
Cups of food should be placed adjacent to where the bird is perched,
or food can be scattered on the bottom of the cage if the bird is off
the perch. Offer the bird's favorites, by hand if necessary. The
smaller the bird, the more critical the need for prompt attention.
*************** Do Not Use Ointments or Give Alcohol *******************
Transport
To take the sick bird to the veterinarian, place him in a cloth
lined box with a pierced cover, or in his transport cage. Do not put
water in the box or cage, but do place pieces of his favorite foods. I
f it is cold out cover the box or cage with a blanket or towel and
place it in a plastic bag which serves as a cold/wind barrier. Open
this bag once in the car to allow air circulation. Travel with a
companion if possible and hold the box or cage securily on your lap.
Your avian veterinarian will need the cage paper from the last 24
hours, and bring any special treats that would encourage your bird to
eat should he have to be hospitalized.
Complete Exams
Pet owners are accustomed to taking the family dog or cat to the
veterinarian for an annual check-up. It is even more important for
a pet bird to have regular examinations, because birds tend to have
very subtle symptoms of disease.
Quarantine
Isolation and quarantine of a new bird is the first and most important
thing an owner should do if he/she owns other birds. In order to
protect other birds on the premises, it is advised that all newly
acquired birds be maintained separately for a period of at least six
weeks following purchase.
Many air-borne viruses and bacteria may be spread from room to room by
central air conditioning or heating systems; in this case, an
off-premise location is preferred.
Quarantine is essential for all new birds, even those that are believed
to be healthy.
New Bird Examination
An examination of a newly acquired bird within the first three days
after purchase is recommended in order to protect the investment of
the owner, to uncover and prevent possible disease conditions and to
educate the owner about appropriate bird care.
Even if the new bird checks out "normal", results of diagnostic tests
in the initial patient record provide valuable references for
subsequent examinations. Ask our staff for a booklet detailing
these exams.
Components of the Exam:
History
Your veterinarian is very interested in what you know about the
background of your bird - its age, sex, origin, length of time in
the household, diet, caging. Even if the bird has been a household
pet for a long time, the veterinarian should be advised of any contact,
direct or indirect, with other birds. Examples of indirect contact
would be the owner's buying of bulk seed from open bins in a pet
shop that houses birds, or visiting other aviaries, bird shows or
bird markets.
Physical Evaluation
From an initial, critical observation of the bird in the cage, the
veterinarian can determine general body conformation (obesity, tumors),
posture, attitude and character of respiration. Although many internal
problems may not be evident from a step-by-step, hands-on examination,
an experienced avian veterinarian will be able to note abnormalities
in the feathers, skin, beak, eyes, ears, cere, nares, oral cavity,
bones, muscles, abdomen and vent.
Weight
Once a bird has become an adult, the weight should remain relatively
constant. Checking the weight occasionally, especially at the annual
examination, will give valuable information about your bird's health.
A bird's weight should be measured in grams, not ounces, in order to
detect small increments of change.
Appraisal Of Droppings
The appearance of the droppings- volume, colour and composition - may
help the veterinarian generally assess the bird's health and consider
certain disease conditions. Most birds are nervous in the clinic, so
their droppings may be abnormally loose there: if possible, bring the
latest (24 hour) cage paper for your veterinarian to evaluate. A fecal
sample may be examined microscopically to determine the presence of
internal parasites.
Testing Procedures
Depending on the bird's history, results of physical examination,
species, age and general condition, your veterinarian may suggest
some of the following diagnostic techniques that will assist in
evaluating your bird's health:
Psittacosis test
Several screening tests are available for the detection of psittacosis
or parrot fever. This is important as part of the new bird exam or
annual check-up because the causative agent, Chlamydia psittaci, may
be transmitted from birds to humans.
Blood tests
A blood sample might be taken to determine the amount and distribution
of blood cells. The information may suggest the possibility of certain
diseases, and further tests may be indicated for confirmation. A series
of chemistry tests performed on the blood sample may point to
imbalances in biochemical functions and suggest the possibility of
organ dysfunction.
Microbiology
Your avian veterinarian may recommend a culture of the choana (throat),
cloaca(vent), crop (esophagus), or some other tissue/fluid sample to
determine abnormal growth of bacteria or yeast. At the same time,
antibiotic sensitivity discs may be used to determine an appropriate
antibiotic to be used if bacterial growth requires therapy.
Radiographs
X-Rays may be used to asses the internal condition of your bird. The
presence of old or new fractures, the size and relative relationship
of internal organs, the presence of foreign bodies or soft tissue
masses such as tumours, and the condition of lungs and air sacs are
often evaluated with radiographs.
Annual Check-Ups
Because owners are often unaware of obvious symptoms in the beginning
stages of disease in birds, annual check-ups are advised for early
identification and management of potential disorders. Also,
new information of interest to the bird owner is continually becoming
available. Most owners bring in their birds twice annually: every 6
months for groomings (nails, wings, possibly weight) and annually for
their exam.
Hospitalization
If your pet is sick, he may need to be kept in hospital to receive
medications and nutritional support. Please feel free to speak with
our technicians so that you feel knowledgable and comfortable with the
care and treatments your pet will receive.
Pacheco Disease
Pacheco Disease Virus (PDV) is a member of the Herpes viruses. This family of viruses also includes for example the herpes simplex responsible for cold sores and herpes zoster associated with shingles in humans.
Three principal strains of Herpes virus are found in birds: one affects hatchability of eggs in budgies; another produces upper respiratory disease in Amazon parrots; the third is responsible for Pacheco disease. However within these strains are viruses that cause disease, viruses that lay dormant and viruses that are inert.
Herpes viruses become activated under conditions of stress, fatigue and malnutrition. These conditions may be exist for birds in situations of transport, malnutrition, crowding and breeding.
Symptoms
Full blown Pacheco disease can kill a bird in less than 24 hours from the initial onset of symptoms such as loose and watery droppings, yellow tinged urates and lethargy.
In milder forms of the disease, the birds can appear tired, regurgitate, lose their appetite and develop loss of balance and co-ordination.
Testing
There is only one practical commercial test available. This detects pieces of viral particles in the bird's blood,
stool or in swabs from the inside of the bird's mouth. This test is referred to as
a PCR test. It has been commercially available since the late 1990's. It is
extremely sensitive and will pick up tiny amounts of viral particles. What the
test does not tell us is whether the virus it picked up is a disease causing strain
of virus. Many seemingly healthy birds will test positive on this test leaving the
owner of the bird in a quandry.
If this is a single bird dwelling, then there is no problem and in fact the value
of testing a such a bird is questionable.
If this bird comes from or is to be introduced into a multiple bird household,
the only solution is to vaccinate all the birds.
Treatment
There is no real cure for this disease and the only help is to support the bird
while (and if) the disease passes.
Vaccines
These have been available for many years. Many people have retained a certain
wariness about the vaccine because of serious side effects in certain birds.
The vaccine has been since modified and the current vaccine being used is safe.
Feather Picking
Feather picking or plucking is a behavioural problem in
birds that results in feather, and occasionally skin damage.
Feathers can be overpreened and chewed, broken or completely removed.
This condition can occur gradually over months or years, or in some cases,
literally overnight.
Usually the activity will limit itself to certain areas of the body such as
the chest or the thighs or the back. In a few cases birds will chew feathers on
the whole body. However, even in the worst cases, the head feathers remain
untouched since the bird cannot reach them and the flight feathers and tail
feathers are not removed. The location of the picking can sometimes give insight
into the cause of the problem.
There are several reasons why a bird may engage in this destructive behaviour:
Diet
Healthy feather growth requires a balanced diet. Without proper nutrition,
feathers become dry and lack-luster, may break easily and lack normal ultrastructure.
In an attempt to restore feathers to normal, the bird will overpreen them and cause
further destruction, thus beginning a vicious cycle of preen and damage.
Consult our handbook, the previous page on diet or one of our staff to ensure your
bird's diet is healthy.
Stress and Environment
Birds are susceptible to stress. Common stressful situations for birds are:
* change of homes/owners
* addition or loss of a cage mate or human family member
* lack of stimulus/ boredom
* lack of opportunity for socialization
These stresses can result in displacement behaviour: overpreening and feather
damage.
Socialization
Most parrots sold are handfed, unweaned, babies. A bird's first year is of utmost
importance in creating a well-balanced independent individual. This process can be
thwarted by well meaning but overcaring owners. The result is a badly adjusted bird who
will demonstrate several inappropriate behaviour patterns as the years go by, one of
which is feather picking.
It is crucially important that prospective owners of baby parrots be well informed on
how to raise a young bird.
Wing Feather Clipping
Improperly trimmed feathers can promote feather picking. The cut feather shafts
rub against and irritate the bird's flanks causing overpreening in the area.
We encourage wing clipping to be tailored to each bird and their unique
situation. Some birds must have their flight feathers clipped in order
to avoid accidents or reduce dominant behaviours. Young birds should only have very conservative
feather trims if any. Other birds can remain fully feathered and able to fly.
Birds can learn competent flying and landing skills with help from their
owners. Specially designed harnesses can be used when taking a bird outdoors.
Naturally, they must be taught to wear these harnesses and not all birds will
accept them. Some may even learn how to remove them, so always be attentive!
Flighted birds can also be provided with safe, enclosed outdoor areas to
fly in. If your bird is fully flighted, remember to pay close attention to
open windows and doors through which he could escape.
The benefits of flight are twofold:
The physical benefits include proper muscle development, joint maintenance
and strength, good cardiovascular function, reduced obesity, and the avoidance of
accidents that are due to poor flight control and ability.
The phsychological benefits include the building of confidence and self-assurance. The ability to fly promotes curiosity and exploration and
can relieve boredom.
Remember though, that each situation is unique, and that the decision
to allow your bird to fly or not must be made keeping both your and your
birds needs and temperaments in mind.
DISEASE
Internal Disease
Feather picking can be a reflection of pain or discomfort. A bird that plucks his
feathers at the base of the neck may have a crop infection. A bird who chews
his toes may have nerve damage in the leg and may be experiencing a "tingling"
sensation. Feather picking can be the first clinical manifestation of systemic
chronic disease.
External Growths and Infection
Skin and feathers and follicles (roots) must be closely examined for evidence of viral,
bacterial or fungal infections or cysts which can lead to feather picking.
Parasites
Internal or external parasites can cause itching and subsequent feather
damage by picking. Your pet may have been sold to you with these parasites or
he may have contracted them from another bird. Once infected, a bird cannot rid
himself of these unwanted pests on his own. Your avian veterinarian will advise you
on the appropriate treatment.
Physiology and Hormones
Reproductive hormone levels in birds fluctuate during the year leading to
behavioural changes. One of these may be the plucking of feathers on the abdomen
in females to prepare for egg laying. It is postulated that in a number of these
individuals, this behaviour does not subside but intensifies into feather picking
because of sexual frustration. Hormone treatments have been used in these cases
with varying success.
Behaviour Reinforcement
Whatever the cause, after it's onset, this behaviour may become a permanent
activity in the presence of positive reinforcement. Indeed, once the bird begins
picking, the owner's natural response is to give the bird negative attention by saying
and eventually yelling "no, stop that...", spraying with water and using other methods
in an attempt to get the bird to desist. Unfortunately, in "bird language" all this
negative attention is seen as positive, because at the very least it is attention,
at the most, it is entertaining and fun!
Current wisdom suggests that this activity be totally ignored and that attention
should be given when the bird is not picking.
What To Do
The diagnosis of the origins of this symptom begins with a discussion of the birds
life and environment, a physical examination, and a complete avian profile to
eliminate the possibility of physical disease,
(see our handout: " Complete Avian Profile", coming soon to the website)
If a disease process is discovered if must be treated medically.
Environmental and dietary changes must be made where applicable:
-provide more exercise
-add, remove or alternate toys
-transfer to a well balanced or pelleted diet
-use a wide variety of food colours and sizes to stimulate
-relocate the bird to a quieter or more active area depending on the case
If environmental, dietary and physical aspects are in line, the behaviour itself must be
addressed. This experience, which can be as frustrating as it can be rewarding,
often requires changes involving the bird as well as the owner:
- create or change routines
- establish nurturing dominance
- reinforce positive behaviours
- ignore negative behaviours
A knowledgeable avian veterinarian can refer you to an avian behaviour
specialist if you need additional help. You can also order our behaviour video by calling
our clinic at 514-486-5258.
Collars
The use of collars to stop feather picking is controversial.
It is definitively contraindicated in cases of physical disease. It should be used
in birds, with self-inflicted wounds. We prefer exploring alternative methods for
curtailing feather picking: in our experience, once the collar is removed,
many birds resume picking sooner or later if no other changes were made.
We do however use a collar occasionally to "break the cycle" in conjunction with
behaviour modification techniques.
Above all, if you have a feather picking bird, it helps if you try to ignore
the esthetics (or lack thereof) and focus on the needs of the bird.
If you cannot solve this problem, focus on who the bird is, not what he looks like.
Viral Testing Technology
Over the past few years, new technologies (PCR) have permitted
the development of screening tests for certain viruses in birds.
In addition to Chlamydia, which causes Psittacosis, organisms tested
for include Polyoma virus, Pacheco Disease Virus (PDV) and Beak and
Feather Disease Virus (PBFD).
These tests are performed on samples obtained from the bird's blood,
droppings, or its oral or cloacal mucosa.
Sampling sites may differ according to the organism screened for and
the bird species. Clipping toenails to obtain blood samples is not
a humane practice and should not be attempted.
The biggest drawback to these tests has been in their interpretation.
Are the results absolute? Are there false negatives? False positives?
Do these tests detect only disease causing viruses or do they also
detect non-virulent strains of the same virus?
Important decisions concerning the bird's life will be made based not
only on the test results but more importantly, on their interpretation.
If you are doing this on your own, make sure you are well informed.
PCR testing is a valuable tool,
which helps us maintain healthy populations of birds.
Vaccination is the other way in which we can keep birds healthy. Vaccines are
available for Polyoma and for Pacheco Disease.
Polyomavirus
Polyomavirus mainly affects young birds prior to weaning.
Adults are rarely affected and can display non-specific
transitory symptoms (sleepiness, lack of appetite, diarrhea).
In budgerigars the virus can causes different symptoms than in
other psittacines. Young budgies display abnormal feather growth
(formerly called French Moult). The disease is fatal to most young birds
however those who survive may (or may not) display permanent damage to their
plumage. These birds may become carriers of the virus that they shed through their
droppings.
Young parrots that contract the virus become lethargic, have a hard time
digesting their food and most often die. The progression of the disease can be
as short as 1 to 3 days. A certain number of young birds may survive the disease.
Others, can acquire and process the virus without showing serious symptoms, and shed
the virus, thus contaminating the environment and spreading infection. Except for
budgies and cockatiels, who continue to shed the virus throughout their lives, other
species are not considered persistent carriers. Shedding of the virus will occur
during a period of 6 to eighteen months post-infection.
There is currently no cure once a bird has become infected with the virus, however
a preventive vaccine exists. Since Polyomavirus does not affect adult birds kept by
individuals in a private setting, vaccination is not required. On the other hand,
this vaccine is highly recommended for birds in breeding facilities and for young
unweaned babies exposed to other birds.
Proventricular dilitation disease (PDD)
The parrot's digestive process is characterised by an back-and-forth movement
of food between the proventriculus, the gizzard and the intestines. PDD is
caused by a virus (as yet unidentified) that paralyses the gastro-intestinal
system, interfering with this movement thus preventing the digestion and absorption
of food. Food stagnates in the proventriculus and may putrefy or quickly pass through
the system without being digested.
The parrot will eat voraciously, feeling hungry despite the amount of food
he ingests, as he receives little nutrition. Progressive weight loss and
a slow decline of health ensue.
We do not yet know all the details of this disease but we do know that
it can affect all psittacines, young or adult. Until now, only palliative
treatments and supportive care have been available.
Beak and Feather Disease
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD) is caused by a virus (circovirus)
which attacks a bird's feathers and immune system. It is no longer common to
see beak lesions.
The affected feathers are damaged in the follicle during growth, to the point
where they are no longer viable. The bird progressively loses feathers with
each successive moult, beginning with the flight feathers, followed by the
contour feathers on the body. Some birds may become fully naked.
This disease often affects young birds during feather development but also
affect adult birds, who show progressive feather loss. When this virus infects
very young birds (prior to weaning), it will attack their immune system before
it has completely developed. This leaves the bird vulnerable to infection.
These birds may only survive for a few months.
PBFD virus can be confirmed through viral DNA testing through fecal samples,
feathers or blood from the affected bird. Unfortunately, no effective cure
exists for the disease.
A positive test (indicating the presence of the virus) in a bird that has
no symptoms, does not indicate that this bird will automatically develop the
disease: its immune system can eliminate the virus. These birds must be
re-tested on a monthly basis until the tests become negative.
A positive test in a bird showing symptoms is not a death sentence.
The progression of the disease can be slow, and many birds can maintain
a good quality of life for several years.
PBFD virus is contagious and very resistant to disinfectants.
Precautions must be taken to ensure that sick birds are kept
apart from other birds. Since the virus spreads in powder down,
the environment can be easily contaminated. Normally, a suspect
environment should be tested (again by using a dna swab) before introducing a new bird.
Avez vous besoin d'assistance immédiate? Appelez au 514-486-5258
Need to reach us immediately? Call 514-486-5258
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