Ferrets or Mustela putorius furo, belong to the same family as
mink, weasels, sea otters, badgers, and their wild cousin, the black footed
ferret. The ferret we have as a pet is not present in the wild, but is
closely genetically related to the European Polecat. A domestic animal
since 4B.C, their Latin name furonem means thief, and describes their
character well. Playful, entertaining and mischievous, ferrets make their
presence known in any household.
Ferrets are crepuscular, meaning they sleep most of the day, and are
active at dawn and dusk. They need approximately 18 hours of sleep per
day, and will often adapt their schedule to be awake when you are home
and available to play. Most ferrets have a very keen sense of smell as
well as hearing, but their eyesight is poor. Their average lifespan is
somewhere between 6 and 8 years.
Diet
High Quality Cat or Ferret Food
Ferrets are carnivorous animals, meaning that they are strictly meat eaters.
It has been shown that they can only utilize amino acids from meat proteins
and cannot utilize amino acids from plant proteins. Many of the cat foods
available in the grocery stores have cereal, or plant proteins in their
formulation and therefore are not ideal for your pet.
We recommend the use of high quality KITTEN or GROWTH formula cat foods,
as these are made with high quality meat proteins. A variety of ferret
pellets available on the market may also be suitable, but check the label:
make sure that the fat content is between 18 and 30% and that the protein
level is between 32 and 40%. Over 40% protein may be detrimental to the
kidneys, especially in older ferrets.
Another reason to use high quality food is that ferrets are prone to
a certain type of bladder stone, similar to what many cats develop, that
may be aggravated by a high ash content in the diet. The high quality
foods recommended are low in ash and therefore help prevent bladder stones
in your ferret.
We recommend feeding dry food, as this provides more exercise and cleans
the teeth and gums. Food should be left out to be eaten free choice and
replaced with fresh food daily. Obesity is not a common problem, so the
diet usually does not have to be rationed.
If your ferret is on any other diet, please discuss it with your veterinarian.
Water
Clean, fresh water should always be available and should be contained
in either a heavy ceramic or weighted bowl or a bottle such as is used
for rabbits and guinea pigs. Nothing should be added to the water, as
it may reduce water consumption. Some ferrets like to snorkel in their
water (immerse their entire head), in which case the bowl may need refilling
more often.
Supplements
These are generally not necessary if your pet is on a high quality diet.
If you find your ferret has dry skin or fur, Linatone or Ferretone is
a fatty acid supplement that can help to restore fur and skin condition.
Table Foods
Treats:
While treats are not necessary to provide nutrition, some foods can be
safely given in very small quantities (not more than a teaspoon per day):
* non acidic fruit, chopped up in small pieces
* eggs, chopped
* meat, cooked and cut up
* cat treats, high quality
Bones:
Some people recommend bones for ferrets. We do not. Ferrets can chew and
swallow bones, but small pieces can lodge in their digestive tract, or
can cause abrasion and bleeding while being pushed through. This damage
or blockage may require surgery to remove the piece of bone, and/or medical
management.
Table foods:
It is not advisable to feed grains, nuts, many fruits or vegetable matter.
Ferrets have a very poor ability to digest fiber, and if fed too many
of these foods, may develop colitis or chronic soft, mucous stools.
Sweets:
Never feed your pet foods that are high in carbohydrates or sugars (candy,
desserts, milk and milk products etc) Ferrets cannot digest sugars. As
well, they are prone to developing pancreatic problems such as insulin
producing tumours (insulinomas), which affect the regulation of blood
sugar.
Hairball Laxative
When grooming, ferrets commonly swallow fur which can accumulate in their
stomach and form fur balls. To prevent this, brush your ferret often and
give your pet hairball laxative every other day to help the fur pass through
the digestive tract. Ferrets love this medication and generally will lick
it directly from the spoon.
This medication will also provides necessary lubrication to help small
foreign bodies pass through the digestive tract. (see foreign body obstruction)
Hairball laxatives contain high levels of sugar, so, under normal circumstances,
restrict the amount you give to your ferret regardless of how much he
likes it.
Environment
Cage
It is highly recommended that your pet be caged when you are not home
to prevent accidents, as ferrets are notorious for getting into unusual
spots. House ferrets alone or with other ferrets, but never with another
species of animal. Many different models of cages are available, and imaginative
owners have designed all kinds of elaborate homes for their ferrets. Here
are the principal requirements:
Size: The basic cage needed to house up to two ferrets is a cage 24"
x 48" by 18" high. This type of cage provides little or no exercise,
and although it is adequate while you are not home (or able to supervise),
ferrets living in it must be let out for 2-3 hours every day for exercise.
Temperature & Ventilation: Keep the cage away from direct sunlight
and cold draughts. Ferrets enjoy temperatures that are below 22° C
or 72° F, where humidity levels are comfortable for humans. Avoid
damp areas such as basements or bathrooms. Cages should have three sides
made of wire to provide adequate ventilation. Aquaria are not suitable
cages for ferrets as the ventilation is poor.
Location: Ferrets cannot and should not live outside. Keep your ferret's
cage somewhere in your home where he can see you come and go, but where
he can get his necessary sleep as well. The middle of a busy household
may result in a grumpy ferret that never gets to sleep! Keep cages at
least 6 inches from most walls to avoid stains that result from urine
and stool that miss the litter box.
Safety: Latches and doors should close securely, even if it requires a
small clip or lock. The space between bars of any kind of mesh or wire
should be small enough to prevent escape (less than one inch). Determined
and curious ferrets can get their heads wedged in tight places by pushing
on loose doors in an effort to escape.
Durability: Invest in a sturdy, easy to clean indestructible ferret home.
Cage bottoms should be made of non-porous plastic. Avoid wood, glass,
wire or chewable materials. We do not recommend any kind of mesh or wire
flooring due to the risk of abrasions and injury. The sides and top of
the cage can be made of wire to provide necessary ventilation.
Some companies sell corral type enclosures that set up on your floor.
Whether or not they are an escape proof structure for your ferret will
depend on how determined he is to wander.
Set-up: Cover the cage bottom with old towels or clothes, white or brown
paper, or newspaper. Do not use wood chips, corncob or rubber or foam-backed
carpeting as a substrate for the cage. Dishes and litters can be attached
with c-clamps if your ferret routinely tips them over.
Sleeping Area: an enclosed sleeping area or bedroom is necessary or your
pet will become extremely frustrated and continually dig at the corner
of the cage. Most ferrets are truly content to sleep in a hammock. You
can buy a hammock or make one from a leg of a pair of old jeans or other
tough pants. Other examples of sleeping areas are: an enclosed plastic
or cardboard box with a hole in the side, a hard plastic tube, a towel,
clothing with no holes or a ferret tent as sold in many stores.
Cage toys: Ferrets get bored easily in a cage. To relieve the monotony,
provide hard plastic tubing for tunneling (a favourite activity) and safe
toys for inside the cage.
Litter box:
Most ferrets will use a litter, but the key is that they need to find
it easily. Provide litter boxes inside and outside of your ferret's cage.
Inside the cage let your ferret pick his preferred toilet area (usually
a corner), then place the box in his chosen spot. Corner litter boxes
with one high side are ideal for this situation. When your pet is loose
in the house, provide several low sided boxes litter boxes in his play
area, as ferrets are not very good at returning to home base if they get
the urge. The more litter boxes that are easily available, the higher
the success rate. Note that, unlike cats, most ferrets will not cover
up their waste. Older or convalescing ferrets will appreciate a low-sided
litter for easy access.
Avoid the use of perfumed litter materials, and any that are made of
wood chips, corncob or clay. We recommend a perfume and dust free, fairly
heavy, recycled paper pellet as the ideal litter.
Toys
Ferrets need and love toys! They relieve boredom, provide exercise and
mental stimulation, and satisfy a ferret's natural curiosity and instinct
to hoard. As well, toys in a ferret's cage will help relieve the stress
of being confined.
Safe toys include hard nylon balls or nylon bones, rawhide chew sticks,
metal balls, ping-pong balls (best used under supervision), golf, tennis,
racquetball or billiards balls, and paper bags. There are many safe toys
now on the market made especially with ferrets in mind including: edible
chew toys, edible dig boxes, balls typically made of very hard plastic
with bells inside, tents and sleeping accessories, clear vinyl tubes to
walk and play in, noisemakers that bounce, large plastic rolling balls
with openings your ferret can go into (and roll around in the ball!) and
so on.
Never give your pet any rubber toys! Ferrets like to chew and swallow
rubber. All too often, pieces of rubber cause obstruction of the stomach
or intestinal tract, which requires surgery to resolve, without which
death may result.
Be sure to inspect toys for edible parts, holes, frayed edges or any
potentially unsafe but attractive morsel. Even if a toy is listed as "ferret
safe", if you are unsure, the best bet is to use it under supervision.
Temperature
Ferrets do not tolerate temperatures over 24°C or 75° F very well
and are susceptible to heat stroke. (Symptoms of heat stroke are discussed
in the health section that follows.)
If you do not have a home with air conditioning, here are some ways to
help your ferret deal with the hot summer months:
* keep the cage out of direct sunlight
* keep the cage in the coolest room of the house, or even the basement
* provide cool water bottles, or a frozen water bottle wrapped in a cloth
or towel as a portable air conditioner
* provide a fan from outside the cage to circulate air. (For obvious reasons,
restrict your ferret from having any access to the fan)
* change the drinking water 2 or 3 times during the day to keep water
cool
* make sure water is easily accessible, especially if your cage has several
levels.
* provide a piece of linoleum on the cage bottom, it is cool and your
ferret can lie on it
* mist your pet lightly with a spray bottle
* let your ferret bathe, snorkel and play in a few inches of cool water
Ferret
"Proofing"
There are 3 major considerations involved in ferret proofing your home.
1) Possible escape routes:
Curious by nature, any small opening is a potential escape route for your
pet. Cage doors should be securely fastened or locked. Your ferret's room
should have a door that closes and the opening under the door should be
no more than one inch off the ground. Windows should be kept closed and
your pet should be kept away from a screened window, as a determined ferret
can rip through it quickly.
2) Many "normal" household items and areas are potential hazards
for ferrets.
Places to consider include any small space where a ferret may
get trapped. If a ferret manages to get just his head stuck in a tight
space he can thrash the rest of his body in an effort to get free and
cause serious injury. Check spaces under doors, as well as distances behind
most appliances and shelving units. Block off any opening over an inch
wide with pieces of wood or other rigid material.
Limit access to fireplaces, and open water reservoirs.
Other dangers include the small spaces in couches ferrets can wriggle
into, as well as the area behind reclining chairs, rocking chairs, rolling
office chairs and folding beds. Be sure that before you use furniture
that moves, you know where your ferret is.
Washers and dryers are possible hazards: check your laundry before throwing
it into the wash and your dryer before deciding to start up a new dry
cycle. Chewing through a dryer hose and crawling up into warm clean clothes
is a typical ferret prank.
Limit access to objects that can be tipped over or pushed off
shelves and countertops. Lamps that are top heavy, plants, vases, telephones
with wires and cords, can easily be pushed or pulled off shelves by tugging
on the cords. The smell of garbage boxes and food containers will attract
ferrets, who, in an effort to investigate, may cause the container to
topple over. Any heavy object that falls on your pet can cause injury.
3) "Edible" items:
Ferrets love to chew and ingest many food and non-food items. In their
minds, all these things are "edible". The following items should
be off limits to your pet, as ingesting them can cause gastro-intestinal
blockages, which can be fatal.
Rubbery items: door stoppers, cabinet door stoppers, remote
control buttons, cellular phones, telephone cords, rubber bands, pencil
erasers, rubber feet of clocks, rubber backed carpets, radios and vcrs,
dog toys, crutches or canes with rubber feet etc.
Leathery items: Leather belts, purses, wallets, backpacks, shoes.
Foam items: shoe insoles, foam stuffed cushions and furniture,
stuffed children's toys, stuffed pet toys, foam-lined carpets, sponges.
Cleaners: bars of soap, dish and clothing detergent, sprays,
pesticides, plant fertilizers, etc.
Other items may be toxic if ingested:
Plants: many household and outside plants.
Medication: tubes of toothpaste, ferret hairball laxatives tubes
of anti-biotic ointment, cough and cold medication, band-aids, cotton
balls.
Human foods: fresh fruits and vegetables, nuts, cheese etc
Other: cigarette butts, coins and jewelry
The best advice in ferret proofing is: think like a ferret. Then think
like the human who is responsible for his or her well-being.
Medical Problems
Strong Body Odours
Ferrets have their own distinctive musky smell, which some people find
unpleasant. This scent is transported via bodily secretions (oil on skin,
anal glands, urine etc). Hormones are largely responsible for how strong
these secretions will smell, so when your ferret reaches sexual maturity,
he or she may begin to have a stronger body odour.
Spaying or neutering will dramatically reduces the odour. Most ferrets
are neutered and spayed at a very young age. The anal glands located on
either side of the anus are removed at the same time. We do not recommend
removal of the anal glands in ferrets since this procedure is painful
and since anal glands, unless expressed, do not greatly contribute to
a ferret's odour.
Other ways to reduce the odour of your ferret includes:
· regular cleaning of the cage and litter boxes, including changing
of bedding,
· cleaning your ferrets teeth and ears,
· bathing, but not more than once a month
Fatal Anemia of Females(Aplastic Anemia)
While most female ferrets are spayed prior to being sold, those that are
not will go into heat at about the age of 6 months and will remain in
heat until they are bred, or up to 180 days if not bred. During this time,
high blood levels of the sex hormone estrogen are present, which after
prolonged period, will depress the production of red and white blood cells
in the bone marrow. This causes a life threatening condition requiring
veterinary care.
This condition is totally preventable by spaying your pet by the time
she experiences her first heat. We will spay ferrets at 5 months of age,
or as soon as they come into heat which is usually by 7 months of age.
Ferrets can be spayed while in heat with no problem. The principal sign
that your ferret is in heat is the very obvious swelling of the vulva.
A swollen vulva may also indicate an incomplete spay or an adrenal gland
problem. Contact your vet immediately, and have your pet spayed prior
to, or at most within two weeks of, coming into heat. Waiting any longer
may invite an early death.
If you wish to breed your pet at a later date, but wish to take her out
of heat temporarily, there is a very safe hormone injection that can be
used. It should be given after your ferret has been in heat for at least
10 days, but not longer than three weeks. This option is only a temporary
solution, as your ferret will come back into heat in the future, and the
same condition will set in.
Heat Stroke
Heat stroke is caused by the body's inability to cool down which results
in severe dehydration. Because ferrets have few sweat glands, they are
particularly susceptible to this condition. Heatstroke can be life threatening,
so it is important to prevent it by providing your ferret with a cool
environment (see section on environment).
Symptoms of heatstroke include: lethargy, lying flat on the floor, panting
or rapid shallow breathing, dehydration, dark red paws, nose and gums,
vomiting, mucous nasal and oral discharge, seizures, and loss of consciousness.
You can check if your ferret is dehydrated by pinching together a small
section of the skin on his back (this is called verifying skin turgor).
If the skin immediately falls back onto your pet, he is probably well
hydrated. If the skin stays stuck together and creates a small tent before
returning to it's normal position, your pet is likely dehydrated. A dehydrated
animal should receive immediate veterinary attention.
Parasites
Intestinal parasites
Although intestinal parasites are rare in ferrets, they can occur, especially
in newly purchased young ferrets. We recommend a stool analysis upon acquisition
of your pet, as a routine precautionary measure.
Ear mites
The ear mite, which affects ferrets, is Otodectes cyanotis. It is commonly
found in pet ferrets, and as such we screen for it during routine exams.
A swab of your ferret's earwax is examined under microscope for evidence
of the mite. Note that ferret earwax is normally dark brown and often
visible on the outer ear canal.
Some ferrets will show no symptoms of ear mite infections while others
may scratch excessively, have red or itchy ears with dark waxy secretions.
The mites are not visible to the naked eye.
Ear mites are treated by administration of an anti-parasitic drug either
by injection or by drops placed in the ear canals. In presence of excess
ear wax the ear canal may also need to be cleaned.
Because this mite can infect dogs, cats and other ferrets in your home,
we recommend a thorough cleaning your ferret's bedding and living area.
Your other pets will also require treatment.
Fleas
Ferrets get fleas just like other mammals. If you take your pet outdoors
to walk and play, the risk of exposure increases.
If you find fleas on your ferret, we recommend the use of any kitten
flea powder or shampoo. Repeat the flea treatment one to two weeks later.
However these products will not rid your home of the problem. Should you
decide to spray or fumigate your home for fleas, remove your ferret from
the house during the procedure. Your ferrets cage and accessories will
also need to be thoroughly cleaned.
Do not use any flea collars on ferrets, they can cause skin irritation
and they come off easily. Do not use any flea products that are not safe
for use on cats.
Many long-term preventive flea products are safe for use on ferrets,
consult your veterinarian.
Heartworm
Heartworm is a parasite transmitted by mosquito bites, and is a risk for
ferrets. The risk of exposure increases if your pet plays out of doors,
and if you live in an area where mosquito populations are large. Signs
of active disease include lethargy, chronic cough, labored breathing,
fluid accumulation in the abdomen, and a bluish colour in the mouth. We
can test your ferret for heartworm and put him or her on preventive treatment.
Discuss the options with your veterinarian.
Viruses
Colds and Flu
Ferrets are highly susceptible to human colds and flu and will develop
the same symptoms as humans do. They will have runny noses, watery eyes,
and may develop sneezing, coughing and diarrhea and be off food for several
days. There is generally no need for any type of treatment, just tender
loving care.
If your pet loses all of his appetite, develops a green or yellow eye
or nasal discharge, uncontrolled coughing spells, or becomes very depressed,
do not hesitate to have him treated by a veterinarian, as a more serious
condition may have set in. Also remember that ferrets can give the flu
back to you and to other ferrets. Wash hands frequently, and keep your
pet away from your face.
Canine Distemper
This disease is 100% fatal in the ferret. The symptoms of this disease
include a very high temperature, thick nasal and ocular discharge, loss
of appetite, thickened feet pads and skin rashes on chin, lips, nose and
belly. Diarrhea and vomiting may also occur. Unfortunately, once diagnosed,
there is no treatment.
Please have your pet vaccinated. The breeder usually vaccinates young
ferrets against this disease, but annual boosters are essential to maintain
immunity. Even the pet that never leaves the house may be exposed to the
virus brought in on your shoes or your clothes. Some ferrets experience
an allergic reaction to this vaccine, and as such we require that all
ferrets stay with us for 20-30 minutes post vaccination under observation.
Rabies
There is an approved rabies vaccine available for ferrets; your pet should
be revaccinated annually. This is a killed virus vaccine, which means
that the vaccine produces antibodies to the killed virus, but your pet
has no chance of actually developing rabies from the vaccine because the
virus particles are dead.
The question now is which ferrets need the vaccine. In order to contract
rabies, an animal or person must come in contact with the saliva of an
infected animal through an open wound or bite. Since most pet ferrets
are kept strictly as indoor pets, the chances of contracting rabies are
very small, so why vaccinate?
The main reason to vaccinate is to protect your ferret in case he bites
someone. Ferrets are still considered wild by some people who do not know
them well. These people may panic if your pet bites them (or their child)
and demand that the ferret be destroyed. We urge you to have a written
statement of vaccination from your veterinarian in the form of a signed
certificate to keep as proof of vaccination should a bite incident occur.
To simplify things a bit, we have listed some examples of situations
where rabies vaccine is strongly recommended.
* Any pets living outdoors where exposure to wild animals may occur.
This includes pets that go camping with their owners.
* Any pets with exposure to children. Children (especially small ones)
are more likely to create a bite situation by mishandling the animal
and parents of children that are bitten are more likely to report the
bite.
* Any pets with exposure to people unfamiliar with, or afraid of, ferrets.
People that are afraid are more likely to get the pet excited and get
themselves bitten.
* Any pets that are to be shown, or used in demonstrations where they
may be around other pets or people unfamiliar with ferrets.
* Any ferret which is abnormally nervous and therefore more apt to bite.
If you have any questions regarding rabies vaccine and your pet, please
call the clinic.
ADV (Aleutian mink disease virus)
ADV is a parvovirus that can
infect any member of the Mustilidae family, including ferrets and more
commonly, mink. Although this virus is extremely rare among pet ferrets,
it has received more attention recently.
Unfortunately, the action of the virus and the development of disease
in ferrets are poorly understood. Exposed ferrets may or may not get infected.
If infected, they may or may not develop the disease. The incubation period
is unknown, as is the shedding period (when infected animals actually
spread the virus). And finally, symptoms of ADV mimic many other disease
conditions in ferrets and can include: weight loss, lethargy, trembling,
dark tarry feces, hind end paralysis, and urinary incontinence.
Although ferrets can be tested for ADV anti-bodies, confirmation of their
presence is not an indication your ferret will ever develop, shed or suffer
from this virus.
At this time no safe vaccine exists for immunizing your pet. Transmission
can occur through direct contact with feces, urine, saliva or blood, as
well as through contact with contaminated surfaces. Considering the multiple
unknowns of this disease, the best prevention is to keep your ferret away
from other ferrets you do not know. If you are planning to adopt a new
ferret, be sure to quarantine him or her and have him examined by your
veterinarian.
Gastro-intestinal Disorders
Ferrets have a sensitive gastro-intestinal tract, and once disrupted it
may require attention from you and your vet. Symptoms of any gastro-intestinal
disorder vary from individual to individual. They may include gradual
or sudden lack of appetite, vomiting, loose and dark stools, straining
to pass stool, weight loss and teeth grinding. Any of these symptoms warrants
immediate attention by a veterinarian, most importantly to rule out the
chance there is a foreign body obstruction, which is life threatening
(see next section).
Foreign bodies in the stomach or intestine
Ferrets are very prone
to eating unusual things, especially rubber. Other items that we have
removed from ferret stomach or intestinal tracts have been cotton balls,
belt buckles, cloth, bones, foam rubber, Styrofoam, a piece of carrot
and hair balls. Be very attentive to items left on the floor that your
pet may eat (see: ferret proofing your home). Foreign body obstruction
is, unfortunately, the leading cause of death under the age of 2.
The symptoms of foreign body obstruction vary greatly and can include:
extreme depression and lethargy, pawing at the mouth and salivating excessively,
recurrent vomiting with soft mucousy dark stools or thin stools and straining,
bloating, constipation, face rubbing, teeth grinding, loss of appetite
and chronic weight loss.
Intestinal blockages can be life threatening for your pet. If any of
these symptoms occur in your pet do not wait. Have him examined as soon
as possible by your veterinarian. Diagnosis requires x-rays and a complete
exam. Treatment may involve emergency surgery. You can help your vet by
quickly reviewing your household for clues as to any object your ferret
may have eaten. In mild cases, if in doubt, or while getting to the veterinarians
office, give your pet some ferret laxative and fluids.
Infections
Ulcers and proliferative colitis exist in ferrets and are associated with
bacterial infections. As well, several viruses can cause enteritis (an
inflammation of the intestines). Disease symptoms of the above infections
resemble each other closely, and as mentioned, require a visit to the
veterinarian.
The Older Ferret
The average life span for a ferret is 6 to 8 years. Starting at about
3 years of age we see an increase in cancers in the ferret, most notably
of the pancreas and the adrenal glands. There are also changes in heart,
kidney and liver function, coat changes, dental disease, a reduction of
energy level and other conditions. Some of these are described in more
detail below.
Older ferrets may require more frequent examinations. Your veterinarian
may recommend annual or bi-annual complete blood workups and X-Rays to
detect these diseases early so that they may be treated properly to prolong
life with quality.
Cardiomyopathy
This is a disease of the heart muscle seen primarily in ferrets over 3
years of age. For some unknown reason, possibly genetic, the muscle of
the heart becomes greatly thickened, causing it to pump less blood per
beat, thereby leading to a poor circulation and eventually death.
The symptoms of the disease may be very subtle and include sleeping more,
collapsing for short periods during play, becoming more lethargic and
harder to wake from sleep and decreased appetite. Eventually the symptoms
progress to include: hypothermia, laboured breathing, cough, hind leg
weakness and abdominal enlargement.
This disease can be controlled (but not cured) with medication if caught
early.
Cancer of the Adrenal gland
Adrenal gland disease is a common problem in older ferrets. This tumour
is either benign or malignant, but the resulting symptoms in your pet
are much the same.
Hormones secreted by the affected glands can cause a variety of symptoms:
hair loss, dry skin, weakness, a pear shaped body, an enlarged vulva (females)
or trouble urinating (males suffer from this symptom due to an enlarged
prostate). If you notice any of these symptoms, contact your veterinarian.
This disease is best treated if caught early. The most effective treatment
is surgical removal of the affected gland(s). Medical management can alleviate
symptoms but does not resolve the underlying problem. This option may
be presented if your veterinarian feels your ferret is a poor surgical
risk.
Insulinomas
Insulinomas are tumours of insulin producing cells of the pancreas. Unfortunately
they are quite common in ferrets. These tumours manufacture an excess
of insulin, the hormone that regulates the intake by cells of blood sugar,
resulting in hypoglycemia, or low blood sugar.
Your ferret may be completely asymptomatic and we may detect low blood
sugar levels upon routine testing. Onset of symptoms onset can be gradual
or sudden. Your ferret may appear dazed, lethargic and he may be difficult
to awake from sleep. Salivation and pawing at the mouth are frequently
seen. And finally, this disease can result in seizures, coma and even
death.
The appropriate first aid for a severe or sudden attack is to immediately
rub a sugary substance onto your ferret's gums, in an effort to raise
blood sugar levels. Provide a source of sugar in small quantities to keep
your ferret alert until you can reach your veterinarian. Also make sure
he eats frequently.
Diagnosis requires blood work, most importantly to determine blood glucose
levels. Treatment for insulinomas can involve surgery to remove visible
tumours and/or medical management. Medication can regulate blood sugar
levels quite well, but careful monitoring is required by owners in conjunction
with their veterinarian to continually balance the levels of medication
with the evolution of the disease.
Lymphosarcoma
Lymphosarcoma is a cancer of the lymphatic system, and has two clinical
presentations in the ferret.
Young ferrets develop a more aggressive form of the disease. Symptoms
are often vague at first and may include lethargy, trouble breathing,
vomiting and diarrhea.
A more chronic form affects ferrets usually over 5 years of age. Here
the only sign may be enlarged lymph glands, sometimes even these go unnoticed
by owners until the cancer has invaded and affected another organ.
This is the most malignant of cancers in ferrets, and treatment includes
chemotherapy but the prognosis remains poor. While there is some speculation
that this cancer may be virally transmitted, there is no proven causative
agent at this time.
Bladder stones and urinary tract infections
Urinary tract problems can be related to inappropriate diet, genetics,
underlying disease or bacterial infections. Symptoms include straining
to urinate, urinating more often and/or in inappropriate locations, and
blood in the urine.
Diagnosis may include x-rays and analysis of the urine. Treatment includes
antibiotic therapy and if stones are detected, surgery is recommended.
Prevention of these conditions includes feeding a high quality, low ash
kitten or ferret food.
Conclusion
We feel that the ferret makes a wonderful pet for the conscientious pet
owner. However, we must not put our pets into a situation where they will
be forced to defend themselves. As with any other domestic animal, they
have feelings and moods and can lash out in anger or pain by biting. We
recommend that children under the age of three should not be left with
ferrets without direct adult supervision.
Enjoy your new pet, appreciate his personality, and be responsible for
his care, as he depends totally on you for his existence.
Fast Facts
Latin name: Mustela putorius furo
Life Span: 6 to 8 years
Sexual maturity: Females: 4-6 months
Males: 5-9 months
Female ferret: Jill or Sprite (once operated)
Male ferret: Hob or Gib (once operated)
Group of ferrets: "Business of ferrets"
Ideal environment temperature: cool, not above 72° F ( 22°C)
Gestation period: 41-43 days
Weaning age: 6 weeks
Recommended Care:
Upon Acquisition- visit your veterinarian:
Physical examination (which includes earmite and intestinal parasitology),
Vaccines; distemper and rabies if due.
At sexual maturity:
Surgery to spay or neuter
Yearly:
Physical examination,
Vaccine: distemper (and rabies)
Older ferrets as per your veterinarian's recommendations:
Physical examination and vaccine
As necessary: x-ray, bloodwork, teeth cleaning
Grooming:
Nails: may need occasional trimming but usually take care of themselves.
Bathing: At the owner's discretion, use shampoos designed for ferrets,
but do not bathe more than once a month.
Ear cleaning and teeth brushing: discuss these hygiene issues with your
veterinarian.
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