History
The guinea pig, or cavy, is a docile rodent native to the Andes Mountain Range
area of South America. They were first domesticated by the Andean Indians
of Peru, who used them as a food source and as a sacrificial offering to
Incan Indian gods. During the 18th century, Dutch explorers introduced
guinea pigs to Europe, where they were selectively bred by fanciers.
The guinea pig entered the research laboratory in the 18th century,
and has since made significant contributions to the scientific community.
To this day, the guinea pig remains a favorite pet among children due to
their docile behavior; ease of handling amd quiet nature.
Through selective breeding efforts, guinea pigs are found in an array of
colors and coat types from which to choose. Four primary varieties are
commonly encountered in the pet industry. The Shorthair English
is characterized by having a uniformly short hair coat. The
Abyssinian has whorls or rosettes in their short, rough, wiry coat.
The Silky is a large variety distinguished by its medium length silky hair.
The Peruvian is recognized by its very long silky hair. All types are
commonly kept as pets.
Diet
Good quality food and fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times.
Diet
Guinea pigs tend to be creatures of habit, and therefore do not tolerate changes in
the presentation of their food or water or changes in the taste, odor, texture
or form of the food itself. Pet owners should avoid making radical changes in the
food or water containers as well. Any sudden change in routine can result in the
pet refusing its food and water, which can be disconcerting and ultimately dangerous.
If the diet you are presently feeding your guinea pig is very different from our
recommendations, make changes gradually.
All foods should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist both tipping and chewing.
The crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal pellets out of the food,
but low enough for easy access by the animal.
Pellets:
Commercially available pelleted chows provide all the essential nutrients required by
guinea pigs, as long as the pellets are fresh and wholesome when offered. A good
quality guinea pig pellet should be offered daily with both the quantity and quality
closely monitored.
· Young Guinea Pigs require more energy for their rapid growth and development and as such can be fed a "free-choice" (i.e. as much as they want) dish of pellets specially manufactured for their needs. Growth formula pellets are usually alfalfa based, with high fiber (20%), low protein (18%).
· Adult (over 6 months) and older guinea pigs should eat a timothy-based pellet. These pellets are designed with low protein (14%) and higher fiber content (28%). Their unrestricted use can result in a myriad of health problems including obesity with concurrent heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, bladder stones and kidney disease. Our recommendations for pellet rations take into account age, weight and lifestyle. Unless your veterinarian advises you otherwise, a guideline for your adult guinea pig can be estimated by his weight:
500 gr -1 kg body weight: Feed 1/8 cup per day
1 kg - 2 kg body weight: Feed ¼ cup per day
DO NOT REFILL THE BOWL even if pellets are all eaten before the next day.
A final note on pellets: make sure any pellet you buy is fresh, preferably sold in a
sealed bag with a best-before date on it. We do not recommend bulk bought pellets,
as it is impossible to determine their freshness. Buy small quantities and keep it
refrigerated or cool and dry to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets may cause your
guinea pig to stop eating. If you must buy more than a two month supply
at a time, freeze them.
These pellets contain approximately 800 mg of vitamin C per kilogram of ration.
Do not feed rabbit pellets as a substitute for guinea pig pellets. They are not
equivalent in nutritive value. Unlike rabbits, and most mammals for that matter,
guinea pigs require a high level of folic acid and vitamin C. Guinea pig diets are
uniquely formulated with these requirements in mind, whereas rabbit pellets are not.
Vit C:
Unlike most mammals, guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C;
therefore, they must receive it from an outside source. Pelleted guinea
pig diets are supplemented with this essential vitamin. However, even when
properly stored in a cool, dry place, fresh pellets lose about one-half
of their vitamin C content due to degradation within six weeks of manufacture.
For this reason, we also recommend further vitamin C supplementation
in the water as follows: 50 milligrams ascorbic acid
(human vitamin C syrup or powder or pills) added to 1 cup of drinking water,
made up fresh every 12 hours. Alternatively, your guinea pig can be
offered one handful of fresh kale or cabbage or one-quarter of an
orange daily. See the section on diet regarding fresh vegetables.
Timothy or Grass Hay:
Like rabbits, guinea pigs require a high level of fiber to promote normal
digestion and to prevent gastro-intestinal stasis (see the section on gastro-intestinal
stasis for more information) We recommend all guinea pigs have free choice access to
fresh timothy, grass or oat hay daily. We prefer the loose, long strands of hay as
opposed
to the pressed cubes. These products also contain proteins and other
nutrients essential to the good health of your pet. We no longer recommend the
use of alfalfa hay, as it has been shown to be too high in calcium and carbohydrates,
which may lead to serious health problems, and digestive upsets.
Fresh Vegetables and Fruits:
We like guinea pigs to get greens and lots of them.
Pick the dark coloured fibrous greens, which are rich in a variety of
nutrients. Remember to include your Vit C rich fruits and vegetables as well.
Feed a minimum of 3 types daily to get your cavy used to variety.
In this way, if changes have to be made, they are tolerated more easily.
ANY MAJOR CHANGE IN THE TYPES OF FOOD FED TO YOUR PET CAN LEAD TO SERIOUS
DIGESTIVE UPSETS.
Start with one food at a time, checking that each new addition is well
tolerated, until you know what your guinea pig digests well. Once you
establish your pet's routine, please be consistent.
Follow these guidelines:
Daily:
Give your pet a combination of a least 3 of the following, in a
minimum total amount of 1 heaping cup per pound (500 grams) of body weight:
outer cabbage leaves, carrot tops, beet tops, kale, collards, dandelion
greens (make sure they are pesticide and herbicide free), curly lettuce,
chicory, dark leaf lettuce (not iceberg), all parts of broccoli, brussel
sprouts, escarole, endive, radicchio, wheat grass, carrot, green pepper,
squash, clover, parsley, etc.
Stay away from starchy foods such as legumes (beans and peas) and corn.
Occasionally:
Fruit can be fed with a few restrictions. Stay with high fiber fruits such
as apples, oranges, pears/peaches, papaya, pineapple and strawberries.
These are particularly good for your pet's vit C requirements.
Stay away from sugary fruits such as bananas and grapes.
Give approximately 1/4 cup per pound (0.5 kg) of body weight daily.
Avoid:
Grains such as oats, wheat, crackers, breakfast cereal, bread,
pasta, etc. Completely avoid, nuts (fattening), salty or sugary snacks
or chocolate. These items can lead to a variety of disease problems.
You may see them advertised as treats, but try to stick to fresh
foods as a treat for your guinea pig.
Fresh water
Provide cool fresh water daily. Water is most easily made available by
the use of a water bottle equipped with a "sipper" tube. Guinea pigs
tend to contaminate and clog their water bottles by chewing on the end
of the sipper tube and "backwashing" food particles into it. For
this reason, it is imperative that all food and water containers
be cleaned and disinfected daily. Be sure your guinea pig is used to
his water container, and offer a separate dish if you are unsure he
is drinking. Guinea pigs that eat large quantities of vegetables will
drink less as they satisfy their water intake with these foods.
Handling
Generally, guinea pigs are docile, non-aggressive animals. They rarely
bite or scratch when handled. They usually voice their protest simply by
letting out a high-pitched squeal. They may, however, struggle when being
picked up or restrained. Extreme care should be taken not to injure them
during handling. The guinea pig should be approached with both hands. One
hand is placed under the guinea pig's chest and abdomen, while the other
hand supports its hindquarters. Adults, and especially pregnant females,
should receive careful attention to gentle, yet firm and total support.
Housing
Housing accommodations provided for pet guinea pigs are limited only by one's
imagination, ingenuity, and budget. There is no single correct way to house
your guinea pig as long as the well being of your pet is considered.
Adequate housing is a major factor in the maintenance of healthy pets.
Guinea pigs can be housed within enclosures made of wire, stainless steel,
durable plastic, or glass. The latter three materials are preferred since
they resist corrosion. Wood should not be used due to difficulty in cleaning
and susceptibility to destructive gnawing. Many softer plastics are also
easily destroyed by gnawing. Ideally, the enclosure should have three sides
open for adequate ventilation, and as such aquaria are not recommended.
The design and construction of the enclosure must be escape-proof.
In addition, the cage must be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards.
The size of the enclosure should allow for normal guinea pig activity,
and the bigger the better. Breeding animals should be provided with extra
space. The enclosure can remain opened on the top if the sides are at least
10 inches high, as long as other family pets such as dogs or cats are not
a threat. We routinely house guinea pigs in large rabbit cages, and
find them to be ideal for cleaning and safety and space (approx:4 feet by 2
feet wide by 18" high).
Guinea Pigs are nervous by nature, and may jump or panic if startled.
They feel much more secure if provided with a place to hide. This can be
easily accomplished by providing a cardboard box within the enclosure,
with one side open to the guinea pig, and all the other sides closed.
Another solution is to provide your pet with a "hammock style" roof by
threading a towel through half of his cage, so he can easily hide underneath it.
You may also find he sleeps in his hiding place most of the time,
and as such you may want to provide a towel or blanket in this spot.
Cage flooring should be solid. Solid flooring can be easily maintained if
appropriate substrate and bedding materials are used. We recommend many layers
of newspaper, brown paper or other paper. This way several layers can be
rolled up daily in order to remove fecal pellets, urine, hair and uneaten
fresh foods.
Because paper can be a bit slippery for your pet, it is
recommended to provide a soft skid-free surface in part of his cage,
ideally where he spends most of his time. The use of a towel, paper towels
or dust free bedding is ideal.
Some people use wire mesh flooring, which they believe, provides a
cleaner environment and easier maintenance, but many result in injuries to
the feet and hocks.
Housing on wire over long periods of time often results
in footpad and hock infections from abrasive rubbing on fecal soiled wire.
Broken legs are common in guinea pigs that fall through the wire mesh and
panic to escape. If you insist on using wire flooring, provide a solid
platform as a resting place in at least half the area of the cage. Remember to include a hiding spot in this area.
Bedding materials must be clean, nontoxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free
and easy to replace. Acceptable beddings include layers of paper (see above),
towels or blankets, shredded paper, or recycled newsprint litters such as
"Carefresh" or "Yesterdays news". *
Ground corncob is not recommended as it may harbor fungal spores, and can be
eaten by your pet, causing digestive problems. Cedar and pine shavings have
been associated with causing respiratory difficulty and liver disease in some
guinea pigs and therefore should not be used. Saw dust should also be avoided
since not only is it particularly dusty, bit it tends to accumulate within
the external genitalia of male guinea pigs.
If you bed the entire floor of your guinea pigs cage with a recycled litter
pellet, it may be hard to evaluate the quality and quantity of his stool and
urine. As well, he may ingest particles of it when he eats his fresh foods.
We recommend using recycled litters either in one corner of the cage or
his litter, but not throughout the entire enclosure.
The environment in the vicinity of the pet's cage is another important
consideration. Because of their sensitive nature, guinea pigs are more
comfortable and relaxed when housed in a quiet spot away from noise,
excitement and other such stresses. Also be sure to select a location
away from direct sunlight and avoid cold damp areas. Guinea pigs thrive
in a dry, cool environment with adequate ventilation. Drastic environmental
changes should be prevented, especially high temperatures and humidity.
Since they are nocturnal (active at night), guinea pigs require quiet
periods during the day (when we are active around them) in order to rest.
Since guinea pigs are social creatures, more than one animal may be safely
housed together. In addition, males and females can remain in the same
enclosure indefinitely. However, new males may occasionally fight if in
the presence of a female. Older, dominant animals may also chew on the
ears or hair of subordinate cagemates.
Breeding
The single most important consideration regarding guinea pig breeding is that the
female guinea pig (sow) should be bred between four and seven months of age if
she is to be bred at all. If the first breeding is delayed much beyond this time,
serious, and often fatal, problems with delivery may result. The reason for this is
that the pelvis of the guinea pig fuses at this early age, which narrows the birth
canal, preventing the babies from passing through easily.
Males (boars) should be at least four months of age before breeding.
The sow's estrus cycle ("heat") lasts 14 to 19 days. The actual period in which the
sow is receptive to the boar for breeding is approximately eight to fifteen hours
during this cycle. Sow's often return to 'heat" within a few hours after giving birth.
This time is known as "postpartum estrus" which means that she can be nursing one
litter while being pregnant with another.
Pregnancy lasts between 63 to 70 days. The gestation period is shorter with larger
litters, and longer with small litters. This duration of pregnancy is relatively long
when compared to other rodents. Pregnant sows exhibit a grossly enlarged abdomen
during the latter stages of pregnancy. Her body weight may actually double during
pregnancy. The time of delivery is difficult to assess in guinea pigs due to the
relatively long gestation period and lack of nest building by the sow.
Within one week prior to delivery, a slight widening of the pelvic area can be noted.
This is the separation of the pelvis, which if does not occur, can cause the delivery
problems mentioned previously. If the pelvis does not separate, as in sows that
are bred past seven months of age, delivery of the young may be impossible without
a caesarean section.
An uncomplicated delivery usually takes about one-half hour with an average of five
minutes between babies. Litter sizes range between one and six, with an average of
three to four. First time litters are usually very small.
Unfortunately, abortions and stillbirths are not uncommon with guinea pigs.
The young are very well developed at birth. They weigh between 50 and 100 grams
and have a full hair coat. Babies are even born with teeth and with their eyes
open. Mothers are not very maternal in the raising of the offspring; she does
not build a nest and even remains in a sitting position while nursing. The young
can eat solid food and drink from a bowl shortly after birth, but it is
recommended to allow them to nurse for three weeks before weaning.
Non-Infectious Conditions
Slobbers, Dental Malocclusion
Slobbers is a condition where the fur under the jaw and down
the neck remains wet from the constant drooling of saliva.
The primary cause for this condition is overgrowth of the
guinea pig's premolars and/or molars. Most often this occurs
in older guinea pigs (2-3 years of age), and usually involves the
premolars (the most forward positioned cheek teeth).
The overgrowth is due to genetic factors that result in improper
alignment of the teeth. Excess selenium in the diet has also been
incriminated.
Guinea pigs teeth are constantly growing, which means that if improperly
aligned, they do not wear down evenly. The overgrown piece of the tooth
(that which is not being worn down during normal chewing) causes injury
to the guinea pig's tongue or cheek, resulting in an inability or unwillingness to chew
and swallow food. This may or may not cause drooling down the chin and
neck, but often results in severe weight loss, pain and mouth ulceration.
A veterinarian must be consulted as soon as this condition is suspected.
The diagnosis is confirmed by visual examination of the mouth.
Correction of the problem involves trimming or filing of the overgrown
teeth. Dental work in the mouth of a guinea pig is difficult due to
the extremely small mouth opening and must be attended to by a
veterinarian with expertise in this field. Depending on the how
serious the condition, recovery may involve painkillers until
the mouth ulcers are healed, supplementation with fluid therapy,
supplemental vitamins and force feedings. If GI stasis has occurred,
hospitalizing your pet may be recommended.
This is no permanent solution or correction to this problem. Periodic
trimming or filing of the teeth is usually necessary depending on
your guinea pig and how often the overgrowth occurs. A correction of the diet may also be in order if an elevated selenium
level is suspected.
Guinea pigs with this problem should not be bred since dental
malocclusion is often hereditary.
Gastro-intestinal Stasis:
Fiber in a cavy's diet is responsible for proper gastro-intestinal motility
(contractions of the stomach and intestine which move food down the system). Any
factor that contributes to decreasing the proportion of fiber in the stomach or
intestines will cause gastro-intestinal stasis (GIS). Excessive ingestion of fur
is one of these factors.
Guinea pig digestion is relatively slow and ingested material can remain in the
stomach for more than 3 days. When your cavy licks himself, he swallows fur
(in especially large amounts during spring and fall sheds). This fur will
accumulate in the stomach, which is a normal process, but sometimes, when
the fur is not mixed with sufficient fiber and fluid, it can form a pasty
clump. Guinea pigs do not have the ability to vomit, and so cannot bring up
their stomach contents. If enough of this pasty clump accumulates, the stomach
motility will slow down. Your pet feels his stomach is full and he will stop
eating; this further slows digestion, which will eventually stop.
Initially the stools may appear clumped or they may be linked together with strands of
fur.
Eventually they become smaller and smaller until they are not produced altogether.
Your pet MAY still appear active, alert and lively for up to the first week of this
condition, even if he is not eating. Don't be deceived: he has a serious condition
and you should seek medical attention immediately. If tended to early, your cavy can
be treated medically and the condition resolved with a combination of force feedings,
fluids and supportive medications. If the condition is allowed to progress,
long hospital stays and, occasionally, surgery will be necessary to alleviate
the problem. This condition can be fatal so seek help early on.
The best prevention of gastro-intestinal stasis is a diet high in fiber
(see section on diet) and daily brushing (especially during shedding periods)
with a wire "slicker" type brush. And don't forget exercise, it is important
your cavy gets time out of his cage on a daily basis as it keeps his or her
digestive tract working well.
Scurvy (Vitamin C deficiency)
As discussed in the section on diet, guinea pigs cannot manufacture
Vitamin C and must receive an adequate supply from outside food sources.
Lack of sufficient Vitamin C in the diet results in scurvy.
The symptoms of scurvy include poor appetite; swollen, painful joints
and ribs; reluctance to move; poor bone and teeth development,
and spontaneous bleeding, especially from the gums, into joints,
and in muscle. If left untreated this disease can be fatal, especially
to rapidly growing young guinea pigs, and to pregnant females. In
addition, sub clinical deficiencies often predispose animals to other
diseases.
The mandatory level of vitamin C is supplemented in commercial
guinea pig pelleted rations. However, with improper storage and handling
these pellets lose their potency rapidly. In fact, even when properly
stored in a cool, dry environment, fresh pellets lose up to half of their
potency in only six weeks or so due to degradation of the vitamin. For
this reason, further supplementation is recommended (see section on diet).
Contact a veterinarian at the first sign of this condition for early
diagnosis and treatment. These animals must be treated early with
supplemental vitamin C (given in food, water or by injection) in order
to reverse the symptoms.
Barbering (Hair Chewing)
Hair loss is a common problem in guinea pigs. "Barbering" is just one of the
many causes of it. This bad habit occurs when guinea pigs chew on the
hair coats of other guinea pigs that are lower than them in the
social "pecking order." The dominant cavy, and main culprit, is
identified by his or her normal full hair coat while others have
areas of alopecia (hair loss). There is no treatment for this
condition except separating out the problem guinea pig if it becomes
a serious problem.
Hair loss or hair thinning can occur for a number of other
reasons as well. It is a common phenomenon among sows that are
repeatedly bred or in weak, newly weaned juvenile guinea pigs.
Certain fungal diseases and external parasite infestations also
present hair loss problems. These specific problems are
addressed in later sections.
Heat stress or Heat stroke
Guinea pigs are very susceptible to heat stroke, particularly those
that are overweight and/or heavily furred. Environmental temperatures
above 85 degrees (29° C), high humidity (above 70%), inadequate shade
and ventilation, overcrowding, and other stresses are additional
predisposing problems.
Signs of heat stroke include panting, slobbering, weakness,
reluctance to move, convulsions and, ultimately, death. This is a
treatable condition if recognized early. Heat stressed guinea pigs
should be moved to a cool area, and can be misted with cool water,
bathed in cool water, or have rubbing alcohol applied to their
footpads. Once this first aid measure is accomplished, veterinary
assistance should be sought.
Prevention of heat stroke involves providing adequate shade and
proper ventilation. In addition, cool misting of water and/or a fan
operating over a container of ice can be directed towards the pet's
cage. If indoors, air conditioning during the heat of the summer
provides the best relief. Keeping your guinea pig cool is of the utmost importance.
Disease Conditions
Pneumonia
Pneumonia is one of the most common bacterial diseases of the pet guinea pig.
Respiratory infections are caused by a number of viral and bacterial agents including
Streptococcal pneumoniae, Bordetella bronchiseptica, and a gram-positive diplococcus.
Many of the disease causing organisms inhabit the respiratory tracts of clinically
normal guinea pigs. Conditions of stress, inadequate diet, and improper husbandry
will often predispose a pet to an opportunistic infection with one or more of these
agents. Symptoms of pneumonia may include dyspnea (difficulty breathing), discharge
from the nose and eyes, lethargy, and lack of appetite. In some cases, sudden
death will occur without any of these signs.
Occasionally, middle or inner ear infections accompany respiratory disease in guinea
pigs. Additional symptoms in these cases include incoordination, torticollis
(twisting of the neck), circling to one side, and rolling. Veterinary consultation
should be sought when a guinea pig exhibits any of the above symptoms.
A bacterial culture with antibiotic sensitivity of the throat and/or nasal
discharge will assist the veterinarian in the selection of an appropriate
antibiotic. Aggressive antibiotic therapy in addition to supportive care
of the patient may be necessary to get the condition under control.
Unfortunately, even though elimination of the symptoms is often possible
with appropriate therapy, eradication of the causative bacteria is not.
Bacterial Enteritis (Intestinal Infections)
A number of bacteria are capable of causing infections of the gastrointestinal
tract in guinea pigs. Some of these bacteria are introduced through contaminated
greens or vegetables or in contaminated water. One of the most common bacteria
that cause intestinal disease in guinea pigs is Salmonella spp. Other bacterial
species that may cause diarrhea and enteritis are Yersinia pseudotuberculosis,
E. coli, Arizona spp., and Clostridium spp. In addition to diarrhea, other common
symptoms associated with intestinal disease are lethargy and weight loss.
In other cases, however, sudden death may occur before expression of these signs.
A veterinarian may elect to use aggressive antibiotic therapy and supportive care
to treat this condition. A bacterial culture of the patient's stool with antibiotic
sensitivity will greatly assist the veterinarian in choosing an appropriate antibiotic
to use. Keeping your guinea pig on a diet high in fiber, as mentioned in the section on diet,
will help to reduce the incidence of this condition.
Bacterial Pododermatitis (Foot Pad Infection)
Severe infections of the footpads are very common among guinea pigs housed in cages
with wire flooring. Fecal soiling of the wire potentiates the problem.
The guinea pig's front feet are most vulnerable to this condition.
Symptoms of this condition include swelling of the affected feet, lameness,
and reluctance to move. Improved sanitation and cage floor alterations are
the initial steps in correcting the problem. In addition, the feet
themselves should be treated by a veterinarian. Topical dressing with an
antibiotic and periodic bandaging is often required. Depending on
the severity of the damage, injectable antibiotics may also be necessary.
Therapy may have to be carried out for a lengthy period of time to get full
recovery. Unfortunately, a consequence of this condition is arthritis.
External Parasites
Lice and mites are the most common external parasites of guinea pigs. Lice are tiny,
wingless, flattened insects that live within the hair coats of infected animals.
Both adults and eggs are found attached to hair shafts of affected pets. Mites
are microscopic, spider-like organisms that infest the top layers of the skin in
affected animals. Guinea pig lice and mites are not known to parasitize man.
Mites:
Mite infestations are usually more severe than lice. A specific mite, Trixacarus
cavie, causes serious infestations in pet guinea pigs. This sarcoptic mite lives
in the outer layers of skin causing an intense itching and scratching with
considerable hair loss. In some cases, they are present without the itch and
scratching, but only hair loss and crusting of the skin. In other cases, the
infestation and irritation is so severe that the pet causes significant
self-inflicted wounds and exhibits wild running and circling behaviour.
A veterinarian can diagnose this mite infestation by performing skin scrapings
of affected areas and viewing them under the microscope. Successful treatment
consists of two to three injections of a specific antiparasitic drug at
approximately two week intervals. In the meantime, if wood shavings are used as
bedding or litter, it should be replaced with paper toweling to make your
pet more comfortable, and his entire environment must be cleaned to prevent
re-infestation.
Transmission of Trixacarus cavie mites can occur only through direct contact
between infested and non infested guinea pigs. Therefore, guinea pigs are not
likely to harbor this parasite unless they are recent additions or had previous
exposure to mite-infested guinea pigs.
Lice:
Lice infestations often go unnoticed. However, heavy infestations are usually
accompanied with excessive itching, scratching and some hair loss. Scabbing on
or around the ears may also be evident. Guinea pigs have two types of biting lice
that may parasitize them. Both irritate and abrade the skin's surface and feed
off the bodily fluids that exude through the superficial wounds they create.
A veterinarian can confirm the diagnosis of lice infestation by examination
of the hair coat as well as microscopic examination of hairs from affected animals.
Treatment is usually in the form of an insecticidal shampoo, which is prescribed
by the veterinarian.
As with mites, lice transmission occurs through direct contact with infested
guinea pigs. Therefore, pet guinea pigs are not likely to have this parasite
unless they had previous exposure to lice-infested guinea pigs.
For your pet's sake, be sure that any guinea pig(s) your pet comes in contact
with is healthy and free of these and other parasites.
Guinea Pig Sensitivity To Certain Antibiotics
Guinea pigs are very sensitive to certain classes of antibiotics. For this reason,
never attempt treatment of your pet guinea pig at home without prior consultation
with a veterinarian. Many antibiotics, which are safe for other animals, have
been shown to be lethal to guinea pigs, whether given orally or by injection.
In addition, even some topical antibiotics can produce serious detrimental results.
A partial list of potentially harmful antibiotics includes: ampicillin, penicillin,
bacitracin, gentamicin, erythromycin, lincomycin, clindamycin, vancomycin and
sometimes tetracyclines. Even if an antibiotic is not on this list, it does not
ensure that it is safe to use.
When improperly administered, any antibiotic can produce detrimental and often
lethal results.
The primary mechanism behind this often-lethal effect is a dramatic alteration of
the normal microbial balance in the gastrointestinal tract. In addition to
affecting the disease-causing bacteria in the body, they also interfere with
the normal beneficial bacteria in the guinea pig's digestive system. Guinea pigs
have very delicate digestive systems, so any alteration can produce a cascade of
events leading to serious illness or death. As well as causing disruption of the
bacterial balance, these alterations also result in the production of harmful
chemicals in the guinea pig's body. Other antibiotics cause direct toxic effects
to the guinea pig without initially disrupting the digestive system, often proving
to be rapidly fatal.
Whenever a veterinarian prescribes any antibiotic, always supplement your guinea
pig with a pro-biotic. Your veterinarian may prescribe a product that replaces
beneficial bacteria, such as "Benebac". If not, you can supplement your guinea
pigs diet with about one-half teaspoon (2.5 cc) of plain yogurt given twice daily.
This therapy should continue for several days past the end of the antibiotic
therapy. Pro-biotics helps augment and replace the beneficial intestinal
bacteria that are compromised by the antibiotic treatment.
The bottom line is never attempt treatment at home without first consulting
with your veterinarian. |
